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Ring-spun cotton at a substantial 6.1 oz, garment-dyed so the color lives in the fabric itself ~ every shade looks like it spent a good summer somewhere. The relaxed fit hangs easy over real bodies doing real things: pressing yardage, hauling the machine into the truck, standing at a show quilt slightly too long (worth it). It softens with every wash and never goes flimsy, which is exactly the aging curve we ask of fabric and rarely get from a shirt. Cold wash, inside out, low tumble. Fair warning from long experience: nobody owns one 1717. The first purchase is a gateway. 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